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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.